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by alist on Tue Nov 03, 2009 9:20 pm
bob_kemp wrote:

alist, I think if you put tobacco through a meat grinder wetter, it will make a lot less powder. For snus, you'd want more powder than for dip (moist snuff), so I'd grind it finer.


Snus is moist snuff, so the finer the grind, the better, I would think, although some brands of the Swedish snus do have a coarser grind.

bob_kemp wrote:

isn't snus a fine powder contained by a fabric? I could be wrong. I have a pack of Marlboro snus here and that's what it looks like to me.


Portion snus is moist snuff in a small teabag-like pouch. Lös (loose) snus is moist snuff without any teabag pouch. You 'mold' (known as hand-baking) the lös snus with your hand, or use an Icetool, then pop the resulting 'pris' into your upper lip. I don't believe Marlboro snus is the real deal. I am fairly sure the Camel SNUS isn't the real deal, based on taste alone, which is truly horrible compared to what the Swedes produce, (I have no trust for Big Tobacco anyway.) I get my snus out of Sweden, so that I know it was processed correctly and has an expiration date, until I can get a good tobacco crop out of the ground.

bob_kemp wrote:

All I can say is that just because you can eat it, doesn't mean you should smoke it. Burning it first is certainly work added that changes the chemistry. That could result in all kinds of complicated consequences.


That could well be true. However, whichever of the really big, well-known Chinese company that first introduced e-smoking to America, did do a study (for a 3 year term I believe) on vaping e-liquids, which also use a base of propylene glycol. ( I personally mixed my e-liquids using glycerine instead of PG, when I was still e-smoking.) That study, short term though it was, did not show any harm from inhaling the e-liquids in a PG base. Longer term studies would probably settle the issue once and for all.

bob_kemp wrote:

I tried additives in my tobacco and I've ended up not adding anything.


Some I will have to use, in order to get the snus correct. However, they are all well known chemicals, perfectly safe for consumption, given I will be using Swedish snus recipes and the Swedish do regulate snus as a food, since it goes into the mouth. (Mostly, at least as far as the sodium carbonate, I believe, it is for raising PH/alkalinity, for greater absorption of nicotine from the tobacco. This is no different than spraying baccy leaves with ammonia to 'freebase' the nicotine, or alternatively, spraying leaves with a lemon rinse to acidify, or lower the available level of nicotine in the leaves.)
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by bob_kemp on Wed Nov 04, 2009 6:14 am
Hi --

Thanks for the great info about snus! So it sounds like snus is a moist snuff, generally speaking, like a 'dip"? Is Copengagen dip snus?

I wonder if you would take the time to write up one recipe for a snus, the whole process as a post here. I'd find it good reading and I'm sure everyone else would too. Or if you have a link to any snus recipes, post it here.

With the increase in punishment taxation, more and more people will be needing recipes for their favorite tasting commercial tobaccos, like cig brands, chew and snuff, &etc. and a quick google search shows there aren't many out there.

Bob
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by gilster on Wed Nov 04, 2009 6:23 am
I have some Swedish snus and it's pretty good. Of course it's not the same as smoking but it is a nice alternative.

I use the mini pouches on occasion and you can't even tell - snus all day - snus all night....

Alist, I too would love a recipe link or two!
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by alist on Wed Nov 04, 2009 10:31 am
bob_kemp wrote:
Hi --
Thanks for the great info about snus! So it sounds like snus is a moist snuff, generally speaking, like a 'dip"? Is Copengagen dip snus?


The methods of making snus differ from those of making dip, I believe, although Swedish Match, who has 70% of the Swedish snus market, also makes certain American dips. You don't spit with snus as you do with dip though.

bob_kemp wrote:

I wonder if you would take the time to write up one recipe for a snus, the whole process as a post here. I'd find it good reading and I'm sure everyone else would too. Or if you have a link to any snus recipes, post it here.


"Grind 1 kg tobacco (pipe tobacco like Caravelle) to a fine powder. [I personally wouldn't use cured tobacco, aside from air cured.]

Intermix tobacco powder with 11 dl waters and 1/2 hk ( 50 grams) salt.
Intermix, flat out and cover with gladpack.

[The following is the pasteurization process. This can be done in an oven;]
Set the bowl to sweat in 45-50 degrees' heat in 5 days and night.

After five days and night mix in 90 grams potassium carbonate (Kaliumkarbonat) ,
work it thoroughly into the snuff and let it sweat for another day
and night too. Stir about so that it becomes evenly damp. If you think that is too damp, one can fluff it and let it sit some hours uncovered. When ready, pack in appropriate containers and freeze most of the kit.

When adding flavors, it is probably best to test them first in small amounts.
Juniper gives a taste
similar to Gothenburg's rapé, bergamot oil compares to General. One can of
course try something a little different. Citrus, Eucalyptus, Liver pate; what do I know?"

Source

There are numerous recipes to be found on the internet, as well as videos to be found on Youtube. Although I really like the plain, tobacco only flavored snus, a'la Tres Ankare, I am sure I will experiment with various flavors. I would really like to make a Mango snus.


Last edited by alist on Wed Nov 04, 2009 10:52 am; edited 1 time in total
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by alist on Wed Nov 04, 2009 10:38 am
gilster wrote:
I have some Swedish snus and it's pretty good. Of course it's not the same as smoking but it is a nice alternative.


You know what I REALLY like about snus? With a cigarette, you get a short, but very steep spike in blood nicotine levels. It leaves as quickly as it comes. With snus, the blood nicotine levels have a gradual rise, then stay stable for a period of time, then gradually drop off. The nicotine hit is far more than one gets from a cigarette as well. Loading up on caffeine, then popping a snus before I set out to hike the local mountain every other day (or lift weights on alternate days), gives the BEST of all possible buzzes, due to the following formula:

caffeine buzz+nicotine buzz+exercise buzz=NIRVANA!

It's also a helluvalot easier to do any form of exercise when you don't smoke.

gilster wrote:

I use the mini pouches on occasion and you can't even tell - snus all day - snus all night....


The minis are pretty much my only option as far as portions, since smaller nic hits seem to suit me best. Since I have an Icetool, I can make a mini with loose, using only one click with the Icetool. The loose doesn't have the burn the portions do, since no extra steps in processing are necessary to get the nicotine to pass through the pouch material. Roda Lacket loose, at least, drains like silk.

The main reason I decided to experiment with los, is the PACT Act and the potential to outlaw tobacco shipments via mail, to protect the states' tobacco tax revenues. If it ever does get passed, I want to be well versed in growing my own and well versed in the use of los. As they say, practice makes perfect.
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by bob_kemp on Fri Nov 20, 2009 8:11 am
Hi --

I've been neglecting this thread because my seed and decorative whole tobacco leaf sales are taking lots of my time. I'm going to try to continue it now.

I will talk about how to start the seeds for a bit. None of this is set in concrete, but this method works for me. If I forgot anything major or minor, let me know.

Tobacco seeds are very tiny. Actually smaller than a mustard seed. As such, they need a little tender loving care to start. Typically, the seed is started 6-7 weeks before your last average frost and grown to transplanting size much like tomatoes. I use 72-cell plug trays to start my seeds but many people use 6 inch pots and separate the transplants when they are larger. If the trays have been used before, I dip them in a 5% chlorox solution and let them dry.

I use a sterilized, commercial peat-based potting mix to start my seeds. I screen the mix through a 1/4 inch hardware cloth to make sure it's very light. Then, bottom water the tray to moisten it. You will not be watering these seedlings from the top. I fold a white piece of paper in half an put a quantity of seed at one end and tap it until as close to one seed falls in each cell on top of the media as possible. Do not cover them with potting mix. Don't worry about putting 2-3 seeds in there as you can either tease them out of the cell plug later with a toothpick and replant (handling only by the leaf) or simply clip off extras with a pair of scissors.

Cover with a clear plastic sheet and either put somewhere where the temperature stays a steady 72-78F or put a heating pad under them on low. Do not put them in the sun as they will cook. After they germinate in 7-10 days (I use a magnifying glass to see them), remove the plastic.

You will want to put them in about 75% shade (or 25% light) for 12-15 hours a day. You will then mist the seeds twice a day or more. Keep them very moist and humid. If your air is very dry, you may want to put them in a tent with ventilation to maintain humidity levels. This is when using a sterilized commercial potting mix and clean trays pays off as in this humidity and temp, molds and algaes will want to form. If you see a white fuzzy mold, allow them to dry out until it dies. If you fertilize them after they reach dime size leaves, only use 1/5th strength Miracle Grow or equivalent generic type at most. Remember, you are watering and fertilizing them from the bottom (float on water until it soaks up)

As the seedlings get bigger, give them a little more light until you have reached about 50-75% full light and the leaves are about the size of a quarter. Then you transplant to 4" pots and move them gradually into full light. Around this time you can start giving them 1/2 strength fertilizer as needed.

Ask me any questions and I'll try to answer them. Next I'll talk about how to prepare the field for the transplants.

Bob Kemp
GYOtobacco@yahoo.com
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by gilster on Fri Nov 20, 2009 8:50 am
Excellent info post, I'm going to plant again next year and get them out, this year was a terrible dry-run for me - but I'm learning - thanks to you and other sites!

Is there an alternative to Scott's Miracle Grow that you would recommend?
Miracle Grow fires employees who smoke - remember the Scott Rodriguez case in the Boston area in @ 2007?

I'm boycotting them and any generic fertilizers that I suspect are made by them.
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by bob_kemp on Fri Nov 20, 2009 9:34 am
Hi --

I actually don't use Miracle Grow (tm), but mostly buy the generic kinds available at Wal Mart et al because they are just as good. In the field, I use fertilizer I get at th local feed store with residual nitrogen release.

Bob
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by Trey Nitrotoluene on Wed Nov 25, 2009 8:44 pm
I joined this forum just to say THANK YOU for this thread. Very Happy

I'll probably have questions coming up soon. I really have wanted to start growing my own, this taxation is killing me and they banned my cloves Evil or Very Mad
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by bob_kemp on Thu Nov 26, 2009 6:23 am
Hi -

Ask any questions you like! I'm glad to help!

Be sure to be ready to plant your seeds indoors 5-6 weeks before your last average frost. That's the biggest mistake people make when growing tobacco. The last frost comes along and they look up and think, "Hey, I'm going to plant tobacco" and are 6 weeks late!

Bob
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